In an interview in 2000, Aspinall said Lucan probably committed suicide by scuttling his boat in the English Channel.

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Once inside, the steely gray of the river changes to a rich gold, as the boat threads into a channel walled with reeds.

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Zanzibar Island, visible on clear days across the channel, is a short flight or boat ride away, and Saadani National Park, a two-hour's drive south, makes for an easy overnight excursion.

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And for the cost of a cheap public transport ticket you can ride the harbor boat-bus around the entire channel and see the same sites as the tourist boats (and even hop off and on along the way).

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