波浪破碎是指风大；波浪传到浅水波长变短，波陡增大；海底摩擦。
Determination of wave forces on a vertical wall is difficulty owing to violent change of near-shore wave dynamics by topographic and other factors and to subsequent wave breaking.
由于近岸波浪动力主要受地形等因素的影响变化剧烈，尤其伴随着波浪破碎，增加了直墙上波浪力确定的困难。
参考来源 - 近岸直墙波浪力的模拟·2,447,543篇论文数据，部分数据来源于NoteExpress
波浪变形预报及波浪破碎引起的近岸区流场问题一直是海岸动力学的重要课题。
Wave deformation and wave-induced current has been an important topic in coastal dynamics.
模型中通过“狭槽法”来处理波浪在岸线处的动边界条件，采用涡粘模型来模拟波浪破碎引起的能量耗散。
In the numerical model a 'narrow slot 'method is adopted to simulate mobile shore line and an eddy viscosity method to simulate wave breaking.
波浪向近岸传播的过程中由波浪破碎等效应所形成的近岸波流场是近岸缓坡区域重要的环境动力因素之一。
The near-shore wave-current field formed by the breaking of oblique incident wave is numerically simulated by applying the mild slope equation for describing the wave propagation in coastal zone.
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