数值计算结果表明，该数值模型可以有效地模拟近岸波浪破碎产生的近岸流。
It was shown by numerical results that the model was effective in modeling near-shore wave-induced currents.
波浪变形预报及波浪破碎引起的近岸区流场问题一直是海岸动力学的重要课题。
Wave deformation and wave-induced current has been an important topic in coastal dynamics.
模型中通过“狭槽法”来处理波浪在岸线处的动边界条件，采用涡粘模型来模拟波浪破碎引起的能量耗散。
In the numerical model a 'narrow slot 'method is adopted to simulate mobile shore line and an eddy viscosity method to simulate wave breaking.
波浪向近岸传播的过程中由波浪破碎等效应所形成的近岸波流场是近岸缓坡区域重要的环境动力因素之一。
The near-shore wave-current field formed by the breaking of oblique incident wave is numerically simulated by applying the mild slope equation for describing the wave propagation in coastal zone.
由于近岸波浪动力主要受地形等因素的影响变化剧烈，尤其伴随着波浪破碎，增加了直墙上波浪力确定的困难。
Determination of wave forces on a vertical wall is difficulty owing to violent change of near-shore wave dynamics by topographic and other factors and to subsequent wave breaking.
首先通过实验测量和理论计算得到波浪崩破时的速度场，然后根据该速度场利用VOF法计算波浪破碎后的波高值；
Based on experimental analysis and theoretical calculation, the wave velocity field has been obtained, which is used to calculate the wave height after breaking by VOF (Volume of Fluid) method.
对波浪增减水现象、波浪破碎现象以及波浪破碎引起的环流进行了模拟，数值模拟结果与实测资料验证的结果表明本文模型的计算结果是合理、有效的。
The model is also applied to study the wave set-up, wave breaking and wave-induced current, and the computed results indicate are well agree with measured data.
当波浪在背景中破碎时，从海底升起的气泡扭曲成半圆形。
An air bubble ascending from the ocean floor contorts and twists into a semicircle as a wave breaks in the background.
当波浪在背景中破碎时，从海底升起的气泡扭曲成半圆形。
An air bubble ascending from the ocean floor contorts and twists into a semicircle as a wave breaks in the background.
因为疲惫的波浪，徒然地破碎时。
如今，随着每个波浪打散了我们写在沙滩上的情书，我那破碎的心便痛了起来。
Now my broken heart aches with every wave that breaks over love letters in the sand.
建立二维非线性数值波浪水槽，模拟了规则波条件下破碎立波对直墙建筑物的作用。
A two-dimensional numerical wave flume is established to study the breaking standing wave action on a vertical-wall structure in the case of regular wave.
与实测的破碎波总力相比，均方根破碎波浪力的估算结果具有较高的置信度，建议在工程中应用。
Compared with the test data, the estimated root mean square breaking wave forces have higher reliability and is recommended for engineering application.
对于波浪在逆向水流中极易出现的破碎现象和破碎指标，结合试验资料，文中也作了探讨。
According to the experimental data the phenomena and indexes of wave breaking in a current with opposite directions are also discussed here.
为了研究波浪传播演变过程及其在破碎过程中的瞬时流场变化情况，在实验室水槽中进行了详细的波浪实验。
In order to study the changes of instantaneous field in wave propagation and wave breaking, a series of wave flume experiment is set up.
为了研究波浪传播演变过程及其在破碎过程中的瞬时流场变化情况，在实验室水槽中进行了详细的波浪实验。
In order to study the changes of instantaneous field in wave propagation and wave breaking, a series of wave flume experiment is set up.
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