波浪变形预报及波浪破碎引起的近岸区流场问题一直是海岸动力学的重要课题。
Wave deformation and wave-induced current has been an important topic in coastal dynamics.
不规则波浪作用下沿岸流的速度分布相对平缓。
The cross-shore profile of current velocity induced by irregular wave is smoother than the current induced by regular wave.
在此基础上，进一步分析了波浪入射波高、入射角度、底摩阻及驼峰高度对裂流的影响，得出了一些有用的结论。
Based on this model, we analyze the effects of the change of wave height, wave's incident Angle, bottom friction coefficient and topography on rip current, and some useful conclusions are reached.
由于超大型浮体结构是极为扁平的巨型柔性结构物，不能将其视为刚体，所以它在波浪中的动力响应是一个典型的流固耦合问题。
As the VLFS is a long, huge and thin flexible structure, it cannot be counted as a rigid body and its hydrodynamic response in waves is a typical problem of fluid-solid coupling.
由于超大型浮体结构是极为扁平的巨型柔性结构物，所以它在波浪中的动力响应是一个典型的流固耦合问题，不能将其视为刚体。
As the VLFS is a long, huge and thin flexible structure, its hydrodynamic response in waves is a typical problem of fluid-solid coupling and it cannot be counted as a rigid body.
数值计算结果表明，该数值模型可以有效地模拟近岸波浪破碎产生的近岸流。
It was shown by numerical results that the model was effective in modeling near-shore wave-induced currents.
本文采用三维势流理论求解两船在波浪中相互干扰的耦合运动。
A3D potential flow theory is carried out to solve the wave-induced coupled motions be-tween two ships.
潮汐、风暴潮对波浪的作用是通过其产生的不定常水深与流场实现的；水深与流速对波向的影响很小。
The sea level and current velocity have an effect on wave height, and the wave direction modulation is small.
针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究，并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。
The systematic study has been made on the problems of wave, nearshore currents, sediment transport related to the coastal evolution of sand beach under the action of wave.
而且波浪是海岸地区一个非常重要的海洋水动力因素，波浪作用下底部边界层的流态、底摩阻系数、床面剪应力和泥沙起动的理论还不成熟。
But the theory about the flow regime of the wave boundary layer, the wave friction factor, the bed shear stress and the initiation of sediment motion has not developed very well.
为了研究波浪传播演变过程及其在破碎过程中的瞬时流场变化情况，在实验室水槽中进行了详细的波浪实验。
In order to study the changes of instantaneous field in wave propagation and wave breaking, a series of wave flume experiment is set up.
基于粘流理论建立了三维数值波浪水池，模拟了非线性波浪，并对规则波顶浪中前进的拘束船模的水动力进行了计算。
Numerical simulation of nonlinear waves and a restrained ship model advancing in regular heading waves inside a 3d viscous numerical wave tank (NWT) is carried out.
本文应用势流理论和频域方法研究了三维浮体在深水域波浪中航行时的非线性绕射问题，该问题包括非线性兴波问题和非线性绕射问题。
In this paper, the nonlinear diffraction problem is studied with potential flow theory in frequency domain for three-dimensional floating body sailing in waves on deep water.
本文在静力计算的基础上，应用三维势流理论数值计算程序计算浮标体的附加质量(矩)、阻尼系数和所受波浪力。
Based on static analysis, the added mass and added damping of a buoy are calculated by three dimensional potential flow numerical calculation program.
本文在静力计算的基础上，应用三维势流理论数值计算程序计算浮标体的附加质量(矩)、阻尼系数和所受波浪力。
Based on static analysis, the added mass and added damping of a buoy are calculated by three dimensional potential flow numerical calculation program.
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