波浪变形预报及波浪破碎引起的近岸区流场问题一直是海岸动力学的重要课题。
Wave deformation and wave-induced current has been an important topic in coastal dynamics.
不规则波浪作用下沿岸流的速度分布相对平缓。
The cross-shore profile of current velocity induced by irregular wave is smoother than the current induced by regular wave.
在此基础上，进一步分析了波浪入射波高、入射角度、底摩阻及驼峰高度对裂流的影响，得出了一些有用的结论。
Based on this model, we analyze the effects of the change of wave height, wave's incident Angle, bottom friction coefficient and topography on rip current, and some useful conclusions are reached.
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