They range from grandfathers with traditional flowing sarongs hanging over their bare feet to teenagers clad in polo shirts and trainers, all climbing the 5, 000-odd stone steps that are illuminated by electric lights throughout the night, a glowing white line spiralling up the mountain and marking the way to the top.

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What at first glance appears to be a jumble of boulders was probably a workshop where expert stonecutters practiced their trade. (One chunk of granite has been carved into almost-finished steps.) Another large stone, known as Serpent Rock, has snakes etched into its top surface.

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The most significant feature of Nevins's garden at Middlefield is the hornbeam room, entered as one moves up a flight of stone-and-grass steps toward a bench set on axis with what is the beating heart of any country house in summer, the well-used and much-loved screened porch.

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On the stone steps of the Richards' blue-gray house, visitors gingerly laid down flowers.

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Perhaps most important is the natural setting, from the barely touched mangrove forest (building low-impact was a priority) to the riots of flamboyant bougainvillea that drape the uneven stone steps up to the hillside suites.

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