Look for one of the small outlets serving on an array of breads and buns and dumplings which you wash down with warm soya milk or tea.

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Above is a small sign for New Dish, a restaurant which serves only momo dumplings.

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Lifting the cover of a lacquer bowl might reveal a clear broth with a tiny cube of silken tofu and shreds of chive and citron, followed by a charcoal brazier bearing a small grilled fish, after which an arrangement of candy-coloured dumplings and local wild vegetables might appear on a dish of rustic stoneware.

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