Its speciality is lulas e camaroes grelhados con arroz, the local grilled squid and prawns, with rice and a lime sauce.

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Particularly good: steak frites with sauce au poivre, coq au vin, roast duckling with wild rice, and tuna filet mignon with roasted beets and greens and white wine caper sauce.

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Sip a serious scotch and watch him dab beef ribs and pork chops with his homemade sauce, serving them up along with rice, beans and collard greens to those with the late-night munchies.

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Another time it was arctic char with carrot-curry reduction sauce, coconut rice and wilted rainbow chard, eaten in a secret enclave lit by dozens of candles near the pond.

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