你会在海浪最喜欢去的几个方向里找到最大的海浪。
There are certain directions the tsunami prefers to go in and those are where you're going to get the biggest waves.
文中比较了采用不同的海浪谱的变形情况,同时还分析了波浪能量方向分布对缓坡上在水流作用下波谱浅水变形的影响。
The results are compared with that by regular wave analysis. Different types of wave spectrum are used during calculation, also the influence of wave energy directional spread is considered.
海浪是海面起伏形状的传播,是水质点离开平衡位置,作周期性振动,并向一定方向传播而形成的一种波动。
The waves of the sea is the shape of the spread, and is left at the water quality, balance position periodic vibration and spread to certain direction, in the form of a wave.
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