碎浪是波浪涌到浅水时形成的。
为了讨论的清楚一些,我将区分波浪(或者涌浪),碎浪和方向骤变的浪。
For the purposes of this discussion, I will distinguish between waves (or swells), breakers, and chop.
在波浪过去的时候或者你冲入沙滩之前,你能被浪送出多远?
How far can you ride a wave before it passes by you or you get ground into the sand?
应用推荐