而当波浪到达陆地后，当地的海岸地形特征则会削弱或增强某些能量。
Coastal features can then either reduce or amplify some of the energy as the wave reaches land.
对其相变模式研究表明，河口湾沉积特征及岩相分布受波浪、潮汐和河流三种水动力所控制。
Study on the facies models indicates that sedimentary features and the distribution of lithofacies are controlled by the interplay between Marine processes (waves and tides) and fluvial processes.
本文用建立传递函数的方法，通过入射波浪谱(方向谱)得出群墩上作用力谱及特征值。
In this paper, by using the method of establishment a transfer function, the wave forces spectra on cylinders and the characteristics values are obtained from in incident wave spectra.
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