“一旦第一波波浪到达海岸线，情况就会变得非常复杂，”Geist博士说。
"Once the first wave hits the coastline, it gets very complicated," Dr. Geist said.
本文在物理模型试验的基础上，系统研究了斜向和多向不规则波波浪力的概率分布和频域特性。
In this paper, the probability distribution and spectrum characteristic of obliquity and multi-directionality wave forces are studied systemically by a 3-D hydraulic model test.
直墙式建筑物是港口与海岸工程中的一种常见结构形式，直墙上的破波波浪力较之立波波浪力具有更大的危害性。
A two-dimensional numerical wave flume is established to study the breaking standing wave forces acting on a vertical-wall structure in the case of regular wave.
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