如果我的文字将激发你去尝试冲浪，首先你必须是一个游泳高手– 任何人都毫不例外！
If you what I have written inspires to you to try surfing, you must be a very good swimmer first – noexceptions!
我并不是专业运动员，但我确实锻炼身体。我尝试每天游泳。
I'm not an athlete but I do take exercise, I do try to swim everyday.
我第一次在冷水中尝试游泳的时候，当我的脸在水中的时候，呼吸很不自然。
When I first tried swimming in cold water, my body's natural reflex was not to inhale or exhale when my face was in the water.
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