In 11 years of research he has collected anguilline myths, lore and recipes from all over the world, with particular emphasis on eel-worshipping in New Zealand and Polynesia.

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The food, too, is a souped-up version of traditional mountain cuisine, complete with rural treats such as eel or frog.

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As they get older they branch out, and foodies are on the lookout for the places that add a twist to old flavours, like making a particularly crispy oyster omelette (an egg omelette with tender fresh oysters) or using eel balls instead of fish balls in their wonton mee (noodle and wonton soup).

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