When the chef Andy Ricker chose the location for the New York branch of Pok Pok, his Southeast Asian restaurant in Portland, Oregon, he went a bit off the beaten path, to the Columbia Street Waterfront.

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He also taught me that when the executive chef says, "Wear gloves when you cut the hot chili peppers, " that's more of a requirement than a suggestion.

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They revamped the menu offerings in 2008 when they brought chef Jason Franey on board, snatching him up from the Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park in New York.

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