多么大的海滩!
Munk decided to tackle the problem on his own, puzzling out the physics of how storms generate swells and what happens as they hit a beach after crossing thousands of kilometres of open water.
芒克决定来自己解决这个问题,解决风暴产生的物理变化,以及当它们跨越数千里的公开水域后将会发生什么。
Hawaii is famous for big waves, which makes the surfers happy, but what about a beach for those who have no idea what ‘under the barrel’ means?
夏威夷以浪大著称,这儿的大浪可乐坏了冲浪手,可是对于那些不知“under the barrel”(糗大了,我也不知道这词啥意思,求指教)意思的人,沙滩意味着什么呢?
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