"I remember when only a handful of people came, " says Tran Hong Chi, a guide for the somewhat grisly tours into the Demilitarized Zone or DMZ, a heavily bombed and severely poisoned territory that served as the boundary between north and south Vietnam.
The territory's first leader, Colonel Abdullahi Yusuf, served a three-year term until 2001, when his attempt to extend his mandate triggered fierce fighting.