An ocean wave passing through deep water causes a particle on the surface to move in a roughly circular orbit, drawing the particle first towards the advancing wave.
穿过深水的海浪使水面上的一个微粒按照一种近乎圆形的轨道移动，先把微粒拉向前移动的海浪。
An ocean wave passing through deep water causes a particle on the surface to move in a roughly circular orbit.
穿过深水的海浪使水面上的一个微粒按照一种近乎圆形的轨道移动。
In the course of the propagation of deep water waves to the shoal water zone, the distribution of the surface elevation and the wave spectrum will be changed due to shoaling effect.
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中，由于变浅作用，其波面高度分布，波谱都发生了变化。
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