This o ld-school Italian spot on South Olive Street has a sumptuous 1920s Art Deco interior and a menu with items like lobster linguini with tomatoes and bacon-wrapped veal chop.

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The substitute scored with almost his first touch with a sumptuous left foot first-time strike from a tight angle, after a great little ball from Zidan.

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Alain Ducasse has opened a sumptuous hotel, L'Andana, here, in a 16th-century former hunting lodge of the grand duke of Tuscany, and there is a small but impressive echelon of destination restaurants--like Caino, in the medieval village of Montemerano, and Ristorante Bracali, in a former corner tobacco store near Massa Marittima--where local chefs are rising to Michelin stardom by (profoundly) rethinking local dishes.

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