Crossing downtown Seoul is the Cheonggye stream -- a river that was covered by a road until it was unearthed in 2005 and transformed into one of the city center's most popular urban oases and worth a stroll in the evening.
Then from nowhere emerged a large group of Iraqis -- an old man, several young boys and a stream of women enveloped in black chadors -- that began crossing a major intersection overlooked by Humvees.