An altar is erected and piled high with offerings to the invisible visitors: flowers, ribbons, coloured candles, tamales (steam-cooked cornmeal dough), fruit and corn.

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Cover with the bamboo lid, set the steamer inside the wok over the simmering stock, and steam for 15 to 20 minutes, until the fish is cooked.

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Chef and owner Johnny Hernandez addresses me through the steam rising from arrachera en salsa de tomatillo, a central Mexican speciality cooked and served in a molcajete - a mortar hewn from volcanic basalt whose design dates back to Mesoamerican times.

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