Five hours later we were climbing snow slopes to the base of Cerro Standhardt (just under 9, 000 feet tall), the shortest of three peaks rising in increasing height and elegance on the Cerro Torre massif.
The best place to stay is at the nearby Solio Lodge, a 35km drive east at the base of snow-capped Mount Kenya, which organises regular day trips to the park as well as activities including horseback rides, helicopter trips and spa treatments.