For Paul Kahan, there was no question he would serve the silver-skinned fish at his pub-style restaurant, the Publican.

WSJ: Sardines With Tapenade and Lime-Coriander Yogurt | Slow Food Fast

Fish skinned and filleted by hand have a 15-pound recovery on every 22 pounds, in comparison with 10 pounds of recovery when done by a machine.

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At 15 he started, 48 hours a week chopping up fish in some poky hole, getting shocks from the finning machine, steeping his skinned, sore hands in brine or pickle-juice.

ECONOMIST: Stanley Robertson