The air is thick with the smell of popcorn and the sound of hawkers selling everything from backscratchers to freshly baked simit, the national bread snack.

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While the relationship between Nader and Simit is still front and center, so too is the story behind what happened to Nader's father and the aftermath.

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Get into the local swing of things and load your breakfast plate with tangy sheep's-milk cheese, plump olives, flavourful tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, home-made jam and freshly-baked crusty white bread or simit (a sesame-encrusted bread ring).

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