The air is thick with the smell of popcorn and the sound of hawkers selling everything from backscratchers to freshly baked simit, the national bread snack.
While the relationship between Nader and Simit is still front and center, so too is the story behind what happened to Nader's father and the aftermath.
Get into the local swing of things and load your breakfast plate with tangy sheep's-milk cheese, plump olives, flavourful tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, home-made jam and freshly-baked crusty white bread or simit (a sesame-encrusted bread ring).
