abstract:Rusty Long is an explorer, journalist, professional big wave surfer, and photographer. At an early age he and his brother Greg Long (surfer) were junior lifeguards as well as surfers in San Clemente, California, their hometown.
They had a slightly larger yard than most of their crammed-in neighbors, so they had closed it off with sheets of rusty corrugated metal, and there, at four long wooden tables beneath a string of light bulbs which dangled from a second-story clostra-block window, they served up to thirty customers per night, if the turnover was fast.