And thanks to a recent resurgence of interest in native varietals, these grapes are responsible for some of the most interesting wines made in Italy today.
Individual customers have benefited, but improving their own native technical capacities has attracted relatively little interest from developers or investors.
Barbeques stir the interest of kookaburras, large native kingfishers with a maniacal laugh, which sit patiently in the trees before swooping boldly to gobble up any unattended meat.