Her inspiration was Laura Esquivel's "Like Water for Chocolate, " the story of a Mexican girl who expresses her love through cooking, including one meal made with rose petals.
Fourteen years later, Blackbird has become a Chicago institution and Mr. Kahan and Mr. Madia have gone on to build a restaurant group whose critically acclaimed holdings range from a hot spot serving Mexican street food to a sleek, informal restaurant specializing in cooking with oysters, pork and beer.