This peaceful riverside enclave sparks to life during the weekly Thursday morning market, when you will hear vendors and shoppers trading the melodicsounds of Occitan (the original language of the region, spoken today by about 1.5 million people in southern France).
Cornelius Loy gave the evening's most melodramatic, and ultimately heartening, performance, in which he coaxed both melodic and violent sounds out of his theremin, played over big, textured electronic tracks.