From the South Gate of Geumjeongsan, you can extend your walk to take in Seokbulsa Temple, with its Buddhist statues built into the rock face and panoramic views over the city.

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The city of Odense was the childhood home of Hans Christian Andersen and it still looks the part, with cobbled streets, gothic spires and eccentric statues dedicated to its famous son.

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As Stephen Batchelor has recently shown, the open-minded, non-authoritarian side of Buddhism, too, quickly succumbed to its theocratic side, gasping under the weight of those heavy statues.

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