"I could make them one of my special gris gris bags, " said Ms. Jones.

WSJ: The Ghosts of New Orleans

While Chardonnay grew to fame as "white Burgundy, " Pinot Gris began turning up in odd corners of the wine world under murky aliases: In France alone, Pinot Gris is also known as Tokay d'Alsace, Pinot Beurot in Burgundy and Malvoisie in the Loire.

FORBES: Pinot Gris makes the Pinot family proud.

In the Pacific Northwest, Pinot Gris is renowned as the dream match for the oily richness of salmon.

FORBES: White Wine From a Black Sheep