Red chutney scorches the mouth with garlic and chili powder (and maybe a touch of tamarind), while the green stuff tingles the lips with greenchilis, cilantro and mint.
It was always the same: a great wedge of papaya with limes, a crisp thin omelette with greenchilis mixed in, two slices of inch-thick white-bread toast, a dollop of red jelly and of margarine, and a pot of coffee with milk.