For the next four months, half of the rats ate normal chow. The others happily consumed a much greasier diet, consisting of at least 40 percent fat.

接下来四个月，一半的老鼠正常饮食，另一半则愉快地享用更为油腻的饮食，其中包含至少40%的脂肪。

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The predictable is leavened with notes of idiosyncrasy: a pea-shoot-and-watermelon-radish salad provides just the right edge of tartness to the greasier offerings, as does a beautifully balanced pickle garnish sweet with a little chile that accompanies several dishes.

NEWYORKER: Littleneck