More than a few European winemakers deliberately work in a fruitier vein to tap that part of the market, while winemakers in California and elsewhere sometimes aspire to the earthier model of European tradition.
Since CEO John Jordon took over from his parents, who founded the winery, I think the wine has become slightly fruitier and fuller-bodied, but not in an aggressive grape way, rather more pronounced taste of blackberry and blueberry rounding it out.