But be warned: With a total of 10 eggs, five-and-a-half sticks of butter, almost two cups of bourbon, and a generous helping of candied fruit, Lane Cake is not for the faint of heart.
The artichoke appetizer had gone awry and came second, but it was worth the wait--boiled to semi-baby-food consistency and with the season's first fava beans. (They stole the show.) I ended with a whole grilled fish and, at the urging of two guys at the next table, Paradiso's prize dessert, sponge cake with dried fruit and sweetened ricotta cheese.