But equity means addressing the fact that some people come to the table without a fork, some have two plates or none at all, some expect to be waited on, and some are more accustomed to doing the serving.

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When the order of pad Thai landed at our table, McDang stuck his fork in, twirled some rice noodles around and then took a bite.

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And an area on the ground below the table is kept clear in case a diner drops a fork.

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