At the time-warped Palms Grill Cafe, thick slabs of gooseberry, peach and sour cream raisin tempt from a glass case, while the Andrews Sisters croon from the stereo.
The color, over time, had softened into a rich gold, and the wines showed their maturity with supple aromas such as apricot, lemon cream, brioche and toasted nuts complimented by peach and honey.