Resting on his board 75 yards from shore, he turned to watch his friend Brian Simpson glide under the curve of a near-perfect wave.
他在离海岸75码的地方在板上休息，转过去看他的朋友Brian Simpson在一个近乎完美的浪下滑行。
Determination of wave forces on a vertical wall is difficulty owing to violent change of near-shore wave dynamics by topographic and other factors and to subsequent wave breaking.
由于近岸波浪动力主要受地形等因素的影响变化剧烈，尤其伴随着波浪破碎，增加了直墙上波浪力确定的困难。
The near-shore wave-current field formed by the breaking of oblique incident wave is numerically simulated by applying the mild slope equation for describing the wave propagation in coastal zone.
波浪向近岸传播的过程中由波浪破碎等效应所形成的近岸波流场是近岸缓坡区域重要的环境动力因素之一。
应用推荐