Watershed Lodgesitsinaclearingonthe 2,000-acre (809-hectare) area of land, bisected by the river that fluctuates between a trickle and a torrent depending on the time of year.
Those with a head for heights can keep following theriver to the Iwokrama Centre, a riverlodge and research centre where a canopy walkway gives visitors a new perspective onthe rainforest.
Knowing we'd be turning our backs on civilization, we first visited Cape Lodge near the Margaret River (see box, p. 172) to soak up as much five-star nourishment as we could.