It featured, on the jacket, minimal shoulder padding, dual vents, and a graceful, three-rolled-to-two-button stance (his current favorite lapel style), and, on the pants, singlereverse pleats and one-and-a-quarter-inch-cuffed trouser legs.

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When Gates arrived for his testimony Tuesday, he wore bandages on his left arm and had his suit jacket draped over his left shoulder.

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"We feel strongly that American factories can offer us that shape, and a lot of it has to do with the shoulder and the construction of the jacket, " said Cuan Hanly, vice president and brand director of Jack Spade, which produces all of its suits at Southwick.

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