Maxim's is arguably the most famous dim sum spot in town, a 32-year-old restaurant in the middle of packed Central district that serves classic Hong Kong-style dishes to locals and visiting dignitaries.
Shanghai's Pudong district, across the Huangpu river from the old foreign bank buildings on the Bund, shows just how serious China is: a Hong Kong-style skyline of towering buildings, including one housing the largest stockmarket trading-floor in the world, all of it built in just the past decade.
But in Hong Kong little stays the same for long, and in recent years chefs have begun taking fresh approaches to native-style dim sum, bringing a dash of extra excitement to a meal that wasn't exactly lacking in popularity in the first place.