Est in the chic, tucked-away (meaning no view at all) Establishment Hotel is the Sydney Morning Herald's 2006 Restaurant of the Year and a showcase for star chef Peter Doyle's surprising combinations such as a velvety John Dory in a carrot-and-sherry sauce.
Doyle missed the conversion and was substituted soon after for Peter Stringer, the all-action O'Leary shifting to stand-off and taking over the kicking duties.