The last town before the Spanish border, Cerbere, feels more Catalonian and less French, with a smaller quai-side than Banyuls and a boat-clogged harbour framed by the Pyrenees.
The other, espinacas a la catalana, a tapa of wilted spinach with raisins and pine nuts, demonstrates the Catalonian penchant for making savory food sweet with the addition of dried fruits.