当他们到达海岸，一个瘦长的、黝黑的、身上沾著些许海盐的26岁青年溅踏着水面，并爬上一堆破碎的玄武岩。
As they approached the shore, a lanky, suntanned, salt-encrusted 26-year-old stepped out with a splash and clambered up onto a jumble of broken basalt.
波浪变形预报及波浪破碎引起的近岸区流场问题一直是海岸动力学的重要课题。
Wave deformation and wave-induced current has been an important topic in coastal dynamics.
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