波浪向近岸传播的过程中由波浪破碎等效应所形成的近岸波流场是近岸缓坡区域重要的环境动力因素之一。
The near-shore wave-current field formed by the breaking of oblique incident wave is numerically simulated by applying the mild slope equation for describing the wave propagation in coastal zone.
波浪在传播的过程中，产生的附加应力会使海床土体强度沿深度产生非均匀性变化。
When waves propagate over a porous sea bed, the strength of soils in seabed will vary non-uniformly with depth.
为了研究波浪传播演变过程及其在破碎过程中的瞬时流场变化情况，在实验室水槽中进行了详细的波浪实验。
In order to study the changes of instantaneous field in wave propagation and wave breaking, a series of wave flume experiment is set up.
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