Compared with the impressive modernity of the facilities at Waterloo, the balconied holding areas above the domestic concourse that serve Eurostar seem distinctly tacked-on.
Expats looking to get close to this authentic vibe should live near one of the many plazas where fruit vendors set up shop and locals gather for conversations, such as the Plaza de la Aduana, the oldest in the city, or the Plaza de los Coches, known for its balconied houses with colonial arches.