在此基础上进一步结合实验模型，这个数字模型被用于分析正弦地形上的近岸流在波浪作用下的分布情况。
Combined with the lab experiment, the numerical model is applied to wave-induced nearshore currents on a fixed tri-cuspate beach.
波浪作用是将粘土淘走。
不规则波浪作用下沿岸流的速度分布相对平缓。
The cross-shore profile of current velocity induced by irregular wave is smoother than the current induced by regular wave.
波浪作用下的沿岸漂沙只限于各河口及附近海岸。
The alongshore drifts caused by waves appear only in the estuaries and adjacent areas.
波浪作用和附近的马蹄蟹的挖掘，使一些卵群更接近沙滩表面。
Wave action and the digging of nearby horseshoe crabs disturb many of the egg clusters, bringing them closer to the surface.
利用实验方法研究了波浪作用下截断圆柱表面的压力分布。
Experiments are carried out to study the pressure distribution on the surface of a truncated cylinder under the wave action.
提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。
A mathematical model of equilibrium conditions of coastal slope and sea bottom under wave action is developed.
通过室内水槽试验，描述了波浪作用下细颗粒泥沙的起动现象。
The threshold phenomenon of fine sediment under wave action is described based on a flume experiment.
波浪作用力是海洋工程结构物设计和研究中需要考虑的重要因素之一。
Wave forces on offshore structures are one of the most important factors in design and investigation.
本文提出了一个在波浪作用下海岸水下横剖面随时间变化的数学模型。
In this paper a mathematical model of the variation of coastal underwater transverse profiles with time under wave action is proposed.
对碎屑海岸受负载浮冰的波浪作用造成的各种现象进行了成因和类型研究。
The fragmental coast shows some peculiar high latitude landfbrms formed by wave action with floating ice.
通过在码头外侧增设挡浪结构，削减了码头内侧的波浪作用，改善了泊稳条件。
By constructing an additional wave screening structure outside the wharf, wave action at the inner side of the wharf was reduced and the berthing conditions was improved.
考虑随机波浪作用，应用蒙特卡罗模拟法和有限元方法对结构进行可靠性分析。
With the responses of the platform under random wave loadings, the structural reliability analysis using Monte Carlo Method and FEM were carried out.
该淤泥在波浪作用下的固结不排水剪切动强度约为静固结不排水强度的50%。
The undrained cyclic shear strength of the silt is about 50% of the static undrained shear strength.
波浪作用下海床中的孔隙水压力与有效应力是影响海底管线稳定性的主要因素。
Wave-induced pore pressure and effective stresses in the saturated porous seabed under wave loading are the main factors that govern the overall stability of submarine pipelines.
另外对于透空式防波堤在波浪作用下的运动和动力特性都还有待于进一步的研究。
And about the dynamic and kinetic characteristics under the wave's action, which need to study deeply.
另外，论文还根据波浪作用下饱和海床响应的解析解提出了液化最大深度的计算公式。
In addition, an equation for calculation of maximum liquefaction depth is brought up according to analytic solution of saturated seabed under waves.
在苏加塔湖溢流向图尔卡纳湖的长期过程中，波浪作用在这些曾经的湖岸线上刻蚀出槽口和台阶形痕迹。
During a protracted period when Lake Suguta was overflowing into Lake Turkana, wave action carved notches and terraces into these fossil shorelines.
网片是制作渔具的基本构件，探索水流和波浪作用下网片的张力和形状是渔具研究中的重要内容。
Researching the nets tension and configuration at the effect of currents and waves is important thing in studying the fishing nets.
展开了对该平台在波浪作用下载荷的分析计算，在此基础上对主体结构进行了三维有限元强度分析。
The load analysis and calculation under wave action of this platform is developed, on this base, a three dimensional finite element strength analysis for main structural body is conducted.
分析结果表明，极端波浪作用下的波浪力矩包含高频成分，是结构物可能产生高频共振响应的原因。
The Fourier spectrum of the wave moment shows that high frequency components will appear and they may cause ringing.
减摇水舱性能试验摇摆模拟台是根据相似准则建立的一种模拟在波浪作用下船舶横摇运动的试验装置。
The experimental rolling simulation stand for anti -rolling tank performance is a testing facility of simulating ship rolling movement in the action of waves based on similarity rules.
本文将波浪作用通量守恒原则应用于缓坡上在水流作用下的波谱变形，并与规则波的计算结果作对比。
The principle of conservation of wave action flux is used here for the analysis of transformation of wave spectrum on sloping beach under the action of current.
本文分析研究了导管架平台结构在随机波浪作用下的动力响应问题。采用空间刚架单元建立有限元方程。
In this paper, the dynamic responses of jacket-type offshore platforms under random sea waves is studied, and the finite element of spatial frame is adopted.
通过两种开孔沉箱码头的结构形式在波浪作用下实测的堤前波浪反射系数，进一步证实了相互间的关系。
According to the real-measured wave reflection coefficient of two kinds of open-caisson wharf structural types in front of dike under the action of wave, the relationship between them is verified.
对带底圈重力式网箱在纯波浪作用下的锚绳受力进行了研究，获得了锚绳受力峰值及相位关系的基本规律。
The force mechanics of the wave and current acting on the Gravity Cage is rather complicated since the Gravity Cage is a kind of flexible floating structures.
在港口、海岸及近海工程中，波浪作用下的海床和结构物响应是涉及海床本身和建筑物稳定性的重要研究课题。
In port, coastal and offshore engineering, the seabed and structure response under waves is an important research subject with respect to their stability.
数学模型中引进前期含沙量的概念，得到了潮流挟沙能力公式，给出了波浪作用下浮泥引起航槽回淤的模拟方法。
In the model, the concept of antecedent sediment concentration is introduced and the method for simulating the back silting under the action of wave is established.
数学模型中引进前期含沙量的概念，得到了潮流挟沙能力公式，给出了波浪作用下浮泥引起航槽回淤的模拟方法。
In the model, the concept of antecedent sediment concentration is introduced and the method for simulating the back silting under the action of wave is established.
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