随着你离碎浪越远，涌浪就不会那么大了，游起来就容易多了。
As you get further beyond the breakers, the swells are not nearly so large, so swimming becomes much easier.
数值计算结果表明，利用本文提出的方法计算台风涌浪能够很好地反映涌浪传播的物理特征，并具有一定的实用价值。
The results of computation show that the method could describe the main characteristics of swell propagation, and may be used in operation.
滑坡涌浪对尾矿库内设施的危害是巨大的。
Landslide surge brings enormous hazards on the facilities of tailing reservoir.
主要研究水平匀速滑坡涌浪的生成与传播过程。
Research on propagation and climb height of surge triggered by landslide in reservoir;
潮水涌浪可能会以九海里每小时的速度狂卷沙滩！
对涌浪的防范，应根据其强度和危害特点来确定。
The preventive measures to the surge should be worked out according to its strength and harm features.
本文从谱的概念出发，提出了静止台风涌浪的计算方法。
Based on conception of wave spectrum, a method for computing swells of a stationary typhoon is presented.
文章还对波浪数值计算中风浪和涌浪的概念及其划分作了阐述。
The concepts of wind wave and swell, and the division of them in the numerical calculation of ocean wave are explained as well.
基于水深积分方程建立了模拟河道和水库滑坡涌浪的数学模型。
A mathematical model based on the hydrodynamic shallow water equations is developed for simulation of waves and its propagation induced by landslide in river and reservoir.
实际围堰爆破时的涌浪观测资料也验证了模型试验成果的正确性。
The swell's data observed in the actual coffer dam demolition blasting have also confirmed the accuracy of model experiment achievement.
对于涌浪在无风下的传播，模拟结果合理，包括波参量及谱结构的变化。
Swell propagating in the absence of wind is simulated with reasonable results, including the change of wave parameters and spectral structures.
一旦涌浪过了你，你又在浅水中了，你会感觉到水把你向着离开海岸的方向推。
And once it is past you and you are in shallow water again, you'll feel the water pushing you away from shore.
周六有0.8米的浪来自南方，涌浪在周日的时候会涨到一米二一直持续到下周二。
Saturday looks to have a 0.8 meter south swell, building to a solid 1.2 meters by Sunday, and holding out until Tuesday of next week.
提出的谱曾与现有理论及观测比较，其结果表示，此等谱可取作预报涌浪的理论基础。
The proposed spectra are compared with existing theories and observations, the comparisons indicating that the spectra can be adopted as a theoretical base for swell forecasting.
远离一定的距离后，远处的碎浪不会再影响涌浪的大小了，只是让你离碎浪和海岸更远。
Beyond a certain distance, going further beyond the breakers doesn't affect the size of the swells at all, it only gets you further beyond the breakers and further from shore.
根据差动式调压室的基本微分方程，首次推导出了差动式调压室涌浪幅值的理论计算公式；
The theoretic calculating method of the maximum and the minimum water level in the differential surge tank has been derived firstly .
在冬季的洋流、涌浪以及热带风暴和内波流作用下钻井船有能力保持位置不动是很有必要的。
It is necessary that drilling vessel is capable of standing still under the action of ocean current wave surge tropical storm and internal wave current in winter.
并从能量叠加平衡方程，近似定量估计出大洋中长历时涌浪有效波高与局地平均风速的关系。
The relationship between local mean wind speeds and swell significant wave heights for long period has quantitatively estimated from the superposition equation of energy.
通过对滑坡涌浪危害程度的预测，可以指导库内浮船的设计及安全定位，保证浮船的安全运行。
Through predicting the hazard of landslide surge, it can guide the design and security positioning of pontoon to ensure its safe running.
船舶在系泊或低航速状态下，当涌浪周期接近船舶自然横摇周期时，船舶摇摆比航行时更为剧烈。
The roll is increased and severer than shipping state when the frequency of wave is similar as the natural rolling frequency of ships.
第4章，在前人对调压室涌浪进行计算和理论分析的基础上，分析波动叠加对调压室涌浪的影响及其叠加时间。
Chapter 4: Based on the previous achievements of the calculation and theoretical analysis of the surge-chamber ground swell, analyze the influence of the superimposition on it and the superpose time.
工程爆破中的灾害主要有爆破有毒气体、扬尘、噪声、飞石、振动和爆破引起的触地振动、爆破水灾和涌浪、空气冲击波或水击波等。
Disasters in engineering blasting includes toxic gas, dust, noise, fly rock, blasting vibration, touchdown vibration, flood caused by blasting, ground swell, air or water blasting wave.
针对带有灌溉系统并装设灯泡式机组的径流水电站，进行了计及涌浪影响的全枢纽过渡过程计算，并在稳态初值计算中使用虚拟阻抗法对流体网络进行求解；
For this reason, this paper puts forward the method of virtual resistance to calculate the initial value of this system and to calculate the transient considering the effect of the ground swell.
针对带有灌溉系统并装设灯泡式机组的径流水电站，进行了计及涌浪影响的全枢纽过渡过程计算，并在稳态初值计算中使用虚拟阻抗法对流体网络进行求解；
For this reason, this paper puts forward the method of virtual resistance to calculate the initial value of this system and to calculate the transient considering the effect of the ground swell.
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