This article analyses the average height of wave, the energy of wave, and their changeable rules with Froude, distance and frequency.
研究分析了水流的平均波高、波动能量、各波动要素随流程和随佛氏数的变化规律，以及波动沿频域的分布情况等等。
This allows scientists to find out the height of a wave.
这让科学家们能够测出波浪的高度。
Depending on wave height and speed, as well as wavelength and water density, each buoy can produce up to 40 kilowatts of electricity.
每一个浮标最高可以产生高达40千瓦的电力，发电的多少依赖于海浪的高度以及速度，同样也依赖于海浪的波长以及海水的密度。
You discovered first hand while meditating there, the area exuded a translucent wave field, similar to the mirage you see when observing heat rising from tarmac roads in the height of summer.
你在那里冥想时直接发现了这个情况，此地散发出一个半透明的波场（或者能量场），有点类似你盛夏时在柏油路上看到的因地面升温而产生的幻象。
Certain parts of the South American coast probably will see almost nothing but other parts might get a metre or two of wave height.
南美局部地区可能什么也看不到，但是其他地区可能会遇上一到两米高的海浪。
Based on experimental analysis and theoretical calculation, the wave velocity field has been obtained, which is used to calculate the wave height after breaking by VOF (Volume of Fluid) method.
首先通过实验测量和理论计算得到波浪崩破时的速度场，然后根据该速度场利用VOF法计算波浪破碎后的波高值；
Some new ideas on "limiting wave height" in shallow water is given by analyzing the cause of this physical phenomenon.
简单分析了产生这一物理现象的原因，对波浪在浅水中的“极限波高”有了一些新的认识。
Moreover, the empirical formula of the wave height and the wave length of the wind wave change with the wave age is also presented.
本文还推出了风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄的经验式以及波高和波长随波龄变化的经验式。
This mathematical model is fit for data acquisition of wave-height, and can improve the testing accuracy of wave height transducer.
这个数学模型，适宜于波浪高度的数据采集，可以提高波高传感器的测试精度。
For wave height and wave period, the start point of wind wave growth is lies in the middle of the other growth relations.
对于波高和周期：风浪成长起点处的值基本处于其余几种成长关系的中间；
First, based on the index of wave climbing height observed on the right bank, the effects unmaking waves were primarily evaluated for various river training works.
首先以目测的“右岸爬浪”为指标，初步评估了各类治导工程的防浪效果，然后用电测电算的航道内波高进行了验证。
In this paper, the combined effect of wave refraction and diffraction, and the variation of longshore wave breaker height are considered.
文中还考虑了波浪折射、绕射的综合影响，以及沿岸波高不等引起的沿岸输沙率变化。
This paper also discusses the influence of typhoon wave patterns on the coastal engineering design parameters such as wave height, return period, etc.
文中还讨论了台风波浪波型对海岸工程建设中的设计波高、周期等要素取值的影响。
Correction coefficient for the wave meter and expressions for wave height calculation are inferred and three methods for observation and calculation of wave height are addressed.
推导了测波仪波高订正系数表达式及波高计算公式。阐述了三种波高的观测计算方法。
Under consideration of wave action on the structures, wave height is often recognized as more important than wave period.
在考虑海浪对建筑物作用时，人们往往强调波高而对周期重视不够。
Life is buzzing immediately chants and cheers filled the playground, especially at the end of the fast wave is a wave height of applause.
顿时人生鼎沸加油声、喝彩声响彻整个操场特别是快到终点时欢呼声更是一浪高过一浪。
Based on this model, we analyze the effects of the change of wave height, wave's incident Angle, bottom friction coefficient and topography on rip current, and some useful conclusions are reached.
在此基础上，进一步分析了波浪入射波高、入射角度、底摩阻及驼峰高度对裂流的影响，得出了一些有用的结论。
This paper proves the calculation of long-shore sediment discharge rates and design waves by making full use of the roses of wave factors (wave height, period).
充分利用波浪要素（波高、周期）玫瑰图推算沿岸输沙率和对设计波浪进行验证。
But under the effect of strong storm, this mode appears to underestimate the lower values, but it provides relatively correct distribution of wave height.
但是在强风暴影响时，该模式出现了低值低估现象，但是波高分布趋势可以借鉴。
It is shown that phase space flux is growing continually along with significant wave height and the safe basin of ships is decreasing rapidly.
研究表明：随有义波高增大，相空间转移率不断增大，船舶航行的安全域迅速减小。
Non-dimensionalized with average wave height, the accumulative probability of wave height in wave groups with long runs is remarkably larger than in wave groups with short.
当以平均波高无因次化，连长较大时波群中波高累积概率明显大于连长较小时情形。
This dissertation depicts how to design an instrument to measure wave height of ocean wave based on the principle of ultrasonic detection.
本文叙述的是如何根据超声测距原理来设计测量海浪波高仪器。
Non-dimensionalized with average wave height, the accumulative probability of wave height in wave groups with long runs is remarkably larger than in wave groups with short runs.
当以平均波高无因次化，连长较大时波群中波高累积概率明显大于连长较小时情形。
This paper is an analysis report about the distribution of the wave height and period, the joint distribution of wave-height and period, and the wave spectral analysis in the western Pacific Ocean.
本文分析了西太平洋实测的波高分布、同期分布、波高和周期的联合分布，以及波谱的分析。
The estimation of extreme wave height is one of the important factors in ocean engineering design.
设计波浪是海洋工程设计的重要问题之一。
The time history of drift motion of mooring buoy in regular wave and wave group is calculated. The relation between drift motion and wave height or difference of frequency is discussed.
计算了规则波和波群中系泊浮筒漂移运动的时间历程，讨论了其运动与波高、频差的关系。
It represents the combination of storm conditions (wave height and wind speed) which on average should occur only once every 100 years.
该标准代表风暴条件(波高和风速)的联合作用，这种情况平均每一百年仅出现一次。
Real time informations of Marine conditions, such as wave height, direction and period to beach protection and the actions on the sea, drilling platform or ship, are very important.
海洋状态的实时信息，象海浪波高、方向和周期对于海岸保护、离岸海上活动，象钻井平台或船只都具有重要的意义。
To examine the effects of significant wave height and incident wave direction on platform motion, a series of experiment tests are carried out with different sea states.
针对目标海域实际海况分别研究了不同有效波高和波浪入射角度对平台运动响应的影响，所得结果可为自升式平台设计提供依据。
To examine the effects of significant wave height and incident wave direction on platform motion, a series of experiment tests are carried out with different sea states.
针对目标海域实际海况分别研究了不同有效波高和波浪入射角度对平台运动响应的影响，所得结果可为自升式平台设计提供依据。
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