Most belay accidents are caused through failure of the belayer.
大多数固定保护绳事故都是由于保护者的失误造成的。
Many belay devices aid the belayer in protecting the climber above or below.
有的固定保护绳装置协助保护者保护上面或下面的攀岩者。
The belayer places himself so as to minimize any adverse action upon the body, and generally faces the wall.
保护者将自己固定，以减少身体的反作用，而且通常情况下要面对岩壁。
An attentive belayer can also save a climber from hitting the ground by taking the rope in and running backwards.
确保者有注意，收绳并往后跑，也会帮攀爬者避开撞击地面的状况。
When the anchors are low down, a standing belayer can be pulled to their knees and could even let go of the rope.
当固定点很低，确保者站著可能会被拉走膝盖著地，甚至绳子会滑掉。
A good belayer is worth their weight in gold, they can offer advice, encouragement, give confidence and save you in a fall.
好的确保者有其重要的价值，他们提出建议、给予鼓励、信心以及坠落时保护你。
First: the position of the first bolt invariably leads to a greater Angle in the rope as the belayer stands away from the vertical plane.
第一：因为保护者站在离开岩壁的地方，第一把快挂总是导致通过它的绳子弯曲成很大的拐角。
Since it is not easy to judge the direction of force in a fall, much less the extent of force, the belayer must evaluate each situation and make use of the rock for the most secure position.
由于在降落过程中很难判断受力的方向，更不用说受力的大小，因此保护者必须对每一种情况进行估量，并利用岩石取得最安全的位置。
The logic behind this is that the upward movement of the belayer during a fall helps to absorb some of the forces and having freedom of movement allows the belayer to move away from falling objects.
背后逻辑说明坠落时确保者往上的动作帮助吸收掉一些冲击力，也让确保者自由躲开掉落物体。
The logic behind this is that the upward movement of the belayer during a fall helps to absorb some of the forces and having freedom of movement allows the belayer to move away from falling objects.
背后逻辑说明坠落时确保者往上的动作帮助吸收掉一些冲击力，也让确保者自由躲开掉落物体。
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