"Old America seemed to be breaking up and moving westward," observed an English visitor in 1817, during the first great wave of migration.
1817年，在第一次移民大潮中，一位英国游客观察到：“古老的美洲似乎正在分裂并向西移动。”
Quiet, he ordered with a brisk wave of an upturned palm - I was breaking his concentration. Yes, he was in charge, alright.
他手掌向上很快挥了一下，悄无声息地发出了命令——我打断了他的注意力，是的，他确是头领。
Based on experimental analysis and theoretical calculation, the wave velocity field has been obtained, which is used to calculate the wave height after breaking by VOF (Volume of Fluid) method.
首先通过实验测量和理论计算得到波浪崩破时的速度场，然后根据该速度场利用VOF法计算波浪破碎后的波高值；
We can do the exact same thing when we talk about lithium, but now instead of breaking it up into two wave functions, we're breaking it up into three wave functions because we have three electrons.
在讨论锂时，我们也可以做，完全相同的事情，但不是把它分为两个波函数，而是分为三个波函数，因为我们有3个电子。
The model experiment on the motion behavior of caisson breakwaters is conducted under breaking wave excitation.
对近破波作用下沉箱式防波堤的运动特性进行了模型实验研究。
Method of characteristics, graphical interpretation of the solutions, wave breaking.
特征值方法，解的图像阐释，波的阻断。
Determination of wave forces on a vertical wall is difficulty owing to violent change of near-shore wave dynamics by topographic and other factors and to subsequent wave breaking.
由于近岸波浪动力主要受地形等因素的影响变化剧烈，尤其伴随着波浪破碎，增加了直墙上波浪力确定的困难。
Just as the wave is breaking, take one or two strong pulls, hold your breath, get in a good streamline, and kick like crazy in order to stay on the front of the wave.
正当波浪破浪的时候，猛划两下，屏住呼吸，保持一个好的流线型，玩命打腿，好把自己保持在波浪的前面。
A two-dimensional numerical wave flume is established to study the breaking standing wave action on a vertical-wall structure in the case of regular wave.
建立二维非线性数值波浪水槽，模拟了规则波条件下破碎立波对直墙建筑物的作用。
The effective temperature of fast electrons is consistent with the temperature scaling of the resonance absorption, which is due to Landau damping or wave breaking.
快电子的有效温度较好地满足共振吸收的温度定标律是由于反射激光加速与共振吸收机制均是通过朗道阻尼或波破对电子进行加速的。
The present paper describes the method for calculating the wave pressure of breaking waves.
本文提出了近破波波压力的计算方法。
The influence of relativistic and thermal effects on plasma wave breaking has been studied by solving the coupled Vlasov-Poission equations.
通过数值求解符拉索夫方程和泊松方程，研究了相对论效应和温度效应对等离子体振荡破裂的影响。
The present paper summarizes the recent study of breaking wave.
本文概括地总结了近年来近破波研究概况。
The near-shore wave-current field formed by the breaking of oblique incident wave is numerically simulated by applying the mild slope equation for describing the wave propagation in coastal zone.
波浪向近岸传播的过程中由波浪破碎等效应所形成的近岸波流场是近岸缓坡区域重要的环境动力因素之一。
In order to study the changes of instantaneous field in wave propagation and wave breaking, a series of wave flume experiment is set up.
为了研究波浪传播演变过程及其在破碎过程中的瞬时流场变化情况，在实验室水槽中进行了详细的波浪实验。
Using which of the deep water characteristics to compute the breaking wave characteristics and then the longshore transport rate is a problem yet not being clarified.
用什么特征波要素来推求破波要素以计算出沿岸输沙率，尚有一些问题业未澄清。
Further, numerical simulating studies about the interaction of a dam breaking long wave with an obstacle have also been done with reasonable results.
进一步对溃坝洪水长波与地面障碍物的作用进行数值模拟，得到了合理的结果。
A vibrating_rocking motion model of caisson breakwater under breaking wave impact is presented, which can be used to simulate its histories of vibrating_rocking motion.
文中建立了沉箱式防波堤弹性振动-摇摆运动分析模型，可对破碎冲击作用下防波堤的弹性振动-摇摆运动过程进行数值摸拟。
According to the experimental data the phenomena and indexes of wave breaking in a current with opposite directions are also discussed here.
对于波浪在逆向水流中极易出现的破碎现象和破碎指标，结合试验资料，文中也作了探讨。
A two-dimensional numerical wave flume is established to study the breaking standing wave forces acting on a vertical-wall structure in the case of regular wave.
直墙式建筑物是港口与海岸工程中的一种常见结构形式，直墙上的破波波浪力较之立波波浪力具有更大的危害性。
The invention relates to a method of measuring a stress wave and to a measuring device and a rock breaking device.
本发明涉及一种测量应力波的方法和测量设备以及岩石破碎设 备。
Surfing is a sport of gliding toward the shore on a breaking wave.
冲浪是一种破浪向海岸滑行的运动。
The models of interaction between breaking wave and breakwater, elastic vibration, sliding motion and rocking motion of breakwater are presented.
对摇摆和竖直非摇摆状态下两相流的流型以及压差波动进行了研究。
So far they're still surfing the crest of that wave with no sign of it breaking.
到目前为止，他们还在风头浪尖，没有破灭的迹象。
So far they're still surfing the crest of that wave with no sign of it breaking.
到目前为止，他们还在风头浪尖，没有破灭的迹象。
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